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More Advanced Shaving Routine Better for Men's Skin

Posted: March 9, 2010

Posted: March 20th, 2010 @ 7:28pm
Source: Skin Inc

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It can be difficult to convince male clients that changing up their shaving routine can be beneficial for their skin. This news item provides proof you can share that a more advanced shaving routine can provide beneficial results.
Globally, millions of men from a variety of ethnic and cultural backgrounds shave their faces on a regular basis. These men have diverse skin sensitivities, varied hair types, different hand sizes and unique shaving techniques. While preferences differ, the goal is the same; most men want a close and comfortable shave.
As a rite of passage, men are most often taught to shave by the previous generation of shavers, leading men to believe that there is only one way to shave — the way they were taught. This was challenged in the previous Gillette white paper, Globally, millions of men from a variety of ethnic and cultural backgrounds shave their faces on a regular basis. These men have diverse skin sensitivities, varied hair types, different hand sizes and unique shaving techniques. While preferences differ, the goal is the same; most men want a close and comfortable shave. As a rite of passage, men are most often taught to shave by the previous generation of shavers, leading men to believe that there is only one way to shave — the way they were taught. This was challenged in the previous Gillette white paper where the science behind the three-step shaving regimen and the use of advanced shave care products was introduced. This paper further supports those findings with a study that demonstrates how including advanced shaving products into the three-step shaving regimen can have a positive impact on skin condition and shave quality through improved hydration, even for men with self-reported sensitive skin.
Gillette research has shown that shaving has a direct impact on the condition of the skin and, in turn, the condition of the skin impacts the quality of the shave. To study this further, Gillette conducted a dermatologist-consulted clinical study comparing a man’s Typical Shaving Regimen, using a bar soap, shaving prep product and razor to a regimen consisting of more advanced products including the Fusion Shaving System and a gentle cleanser. Each of the regimens tested is detailed below. Based on current habits, practices and market share data compiled by Gillette.
Forty (40) men who reported having sensitive skin and who shaved four or more times a week were assigned the shaving regimens for a 14-day usage period. Each man was provided a razor and shaving products that were used in a specific order throughout the entire study. Study subjects shaved their faces and necks daily during this time, using the Typical Shaving Regimen on one side of the face and neck and the Advanced Shaving Regimen on the opposite side. It is important to note that the blade of the razor was not changed for the duration of the study. Data collected using visual analog scale self assessments and Corneometer measurements revealed that the Advanced Shaving Regimen demonstrated a significantly better shaving experience than the Typical Shaving Regimen. The Advanced Shaving Regimen resulted in superior skin hydration on the neck at all measurement time points. Samples representing the average response were chosen for Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), which visualized the benefit of skin hydration on the stratum corneum.
In the participant self assessments, the Advanced Shaving Regimen showed significant improvement over the Typical Shaving Regimen in irritation, comfort and smoothness after only a single day, and additional significant improvement in burning and stinging after 14 days.
Overall, the study results suggest that including more advanced shaving products into the three-step shaving regimen can have a positive impact on skin condition and shave quality through improved hydration, even for men with self-reported sensitive skin. This could provide great relief for clients with sensitive skin, especially those who want or need to shave daily.
Find this article at:
http://www.skininc.com/treatments/facial/87112307.html
The entire white paper follows:
The impact of shaving on skin condition
Advanced 3-Step Shaving Regimen Significantly Improves the Quality of the Shaving Experience and Overall Skin Hydration for Men with Self-Reported Sensitive Skin
Consulting Dermatologist:
Amy J. McMichael, M.D.
Department of Dermatology
Wake Forest University School of Medicine
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Invited Commentary
By Amy J. McMichael, M.D.
Department of Dermatology
Wake Forest University School of Medicine
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Shaving regimens for men come from a variety of sources and include a variety of products. Passed down through generations, discussed in high school locker rooms, dorms and gyms across the country, shaving regimens are as different as the men who perform them. Is there a best regimen, a best product or a best razor for shaving the copper-like hairs of a man’s beard while not disturbing the moistened skin of the face? That is the question that many men want answered.
Though many men have no distinct medical problems associated with shaving, a large number report skin sensitivity during and after the shaving process. To avoid irritation, some men go to great extremes and, on the other end of the spectrum, other men are locked into a regimen that is potentially deleterious to the skin because it is familiar. To better understand the shave experience, the Gillette® group designed an experiment to compare a typical shave regimen with a very specific step-wise program to see if men noticed and appreciated any differences in skin sensitivity between regimens.
A split-face study of men with self-reported sensitive skin was performed in clinical laboratories where men were observed performing a typical shave regimen on one side of the face and a full step-wise process on the other. The typical regimen consisted of the bare-bones regimen of a bar soap and shave cream used with water and a razor vs. a top-of-the-line regimen with a gentle wash in place of the bar soap, shave gel and a post-shave moisturizer. The top-of-the-line regimen provided the most comfortable shave after 14 days of daily shaving. Improvements were reported in multiple measures including smoothness, burning and stinging compared to the typical regimen.
When tape strip samples from the skin for each regimen were evaluated using scanning electron microscopy, the cells from the typical regimen were clumped and irregular whereas the cells from the more complete regimen were smooth and organized in a single layer. This suggests that the hydration of the skin may make a difference at the cellular level.
The overall results of this study are simple, yet groundbreaking. This study shows that a step-wise program of prepping the skin prior to the shave combined with a moisturizing after shave treatment makes a difference in shave comfort. For men who self-identify as having sensitive skin, the regimen improves several self-reported sensations of shaving. Such a simple premise of preparing the skin and then coating the skin with a barrier after shaving has been tested, and the secret is out. The results must be shared with the men of the world who wet shave everyday. Shaving regimens have been described for years in the dermatology literature without specific descriptions of skin prepping. These lists should now include the addition of pre- and post-treatment of the skin for wet shaving.
A paradigm shift may be in order for men to spend more time on the shave process in order to improve the overall shave experience. Education, education and more education will likely be necessary to get this information out for men to follow through on the commitment to a several-step moisturizing shave process. For many men, the proof will be in the pudding when they experience a heightened comfort experience during and after shaving. This study gives a road map on where to go for men who wet shave and how to get there. So the initial question was answered… the roadmap shows the best regimen tested so far is
the one that has the multi-step process of skin prepping. Now the next question is… how do we get men to read the map?
Executive Summary
Globally, millions of men from a variety of ethnic and cultural backgrounds shave their faces on a regular basis. These men have diverse skin sensitivities, varied hair types, different hand sizes and unique shaving techniques. While preferences
differ, the goal is the same; most men want a close and comfortable shave. As a rite of passage, men are most often taught to shave by the previous generation of shavers, leading men to believe that there is only one way to shave — the way they were taught. This was challenged in the previous Gillette® white paper, Advances in Shaving Technology: A Review of the Optimal Shaving Regimen for Men Highlighting Technical Advances Associated with the Fusion® Five-Blade Razor and its Myth-Busting Effect on Pseudofolliculitis Barbae, where the science behind the 3-step shaving regimen and the use of advanced shave care products was introduced. This paper further supports those findings with a study that demonstrates how including advanced shaving products into the 3-step shaving regimen can have a positive impact on skin condition and shave quality through
improved hydration, even for men with self-reported sensitive skin.
Gillette research has shown that shaving has a direct impact on the condition of the skin and, in turn, the condition of the skin impacts the quality of the shave. To study this further, Gillette conducted a dermatologist-consulted clinical study comparing a man’s Typical Shaving Regimen, using a bar soap, shaving prep product and razor to a regimen consisting of more advanced products including the Fusion Shaving System and a gentle cleanser. Each of the regimens tested is detailed below.
Based on current habits, practices and market share data compiled by Gillette, the Typical Shaving Regimen (control) was designed to include:
• Safeguard® Soap (typical bar soap)
• Gillette® Foamy Shave Cream (typical shaving prep product)
• Gillette® Mach 3® Razor (Market Leader)
The Advanced Shaving Regimen (test) included:
• Gentle cleanser
• Gillette® Fusion® Pure and Sensitive HydraGel™
• Gillette® Fusion® Power Razor
• Gillette® Fusion® HydraSoothe™ After Shave Balm
Forty (40) men who reported having sensitive skin and who shaved 4 or more times a week were assigned the shaving regimens for a 14 day usage period. Each man was provided a razor and shaving products that were used in a specific order throughout the entire study. Study subjects shaved their faces and necks daily during this time, using the Typical Shaving Regimen on one side of the face and neck and the Advanced Shaving Regimen on the opposite side. It is important to note that the blade of the razor was not changed for the duration of the study.
Data collected using visual analog scale self assessments and Corneometer® measurements revealed that the Advanced Shaving Regimen demonstrated a significantly better shaving experience than the Typical Shaving Regimen. The Advanced Shaving Regimen resulted in superior skin hydration on the neck at all measurement time points. Samples representing the average response were chosen for Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), which visualized the benefit of skin hydration on the stratum corneum.
In the participant self assessments, the Advanced Shaving Regimen showed significant improvement over the Typical Shaving Regimen in irritation, comfort and smoothness after only a single day, and additional significant improvement in burning and stinging after 14 days.
Overall, the study results suggest that including more advanced shaving products into the 3-step shaving regimen can have a positive impact on skin condition and shave quality through improved hydration, even for men with self-reported sensitive skin. This could provide great relief to patients with sensitive skin, especially those who want or need to shave daily.
Beyond the Blade:
The Importance of the Shaving Regimen on Skin Condition Gillette has conducted some of the most comprehensive research relevant to men’s shaving needs and found that a man’s shaving regimen is key to achieving a “perfect shave.” Specifically, Gillette’s research shows that a 3-step shaving regimen allows men to achieve extraordinary cutting closeness, without sacrificing comfort before, during and after a shave.1
The 3-step regimen involves:
Step 1: Before the Shave
Washing with a gentle cleanser or scrub and warm water before shaving is a simple way for men to cleanse their skin and significantly improve the quality of their shaving experience.2 When oil, dirt, perspiration and debris build up around
the hair follicles of the beard, water penetration into the hair can be inhibited and prevent the razor from cutting optimally. Using a gentle cleanser before shaving removes excess oils, dirt and dead skin cells (see Figure 1). This cleansing helps free the hair from the follicle so it can be lifted by the razor and cut close to the skin.


Figure 1
Allowing water to penetrate the hair is also essential for a comfortable, close shave because dry hair is difficult to cut. In fact, dry hair can have the same strength as a copper wire of similar thickness.2 Shaving without softening the hair first can cause poor blade engagement, excessive pulling on the hair, damage to the blade and ultimately, less closeness and comfort when shaving. When hair is hydrated, it swells and becomes easier to cut (see Figure 2). A study has shown significant reduction in cutting force after only 2 minutes of hydration (see Figure 3). Just a few minutes of preparation before shaving, such as using a gentle cleanser or simply showering before shaving, can optimize shave results while easing the discomfort and skin irritation associated with shaving.
Figure 2
Step 2: During the Shave
Every man has hair growth on his face and neck that is unique and multidirectional. The razor blades must negotiate the surface of the skin and cut hair at different positions and angles even during one blade stroke. This means that many hairs will be cut against the direction of hair growth. In order to minimize the risk of skin irritation during this process, men should apply a highquality lubricant such as the new Gillette Fusion Pure and Sensitive HydraGel. The gel, with four lubricating polymers (including the patented Lubrajel® technology), contains no dyes or fragrances, making it optimal for men with extra-sensitive facial skin, and provides a protective layer that slows the evaporation of water and helps keep beard hair soft throughout the shave.
Once skin and hairs are prepared for shaving, cut hairs with a high-quality razor, such as the Gillette Fusion Power razor, using gentle strokes. The Gillette Fusion razor includes many enhanced features, such as five spring-loaded blades with
uniquely engineered geometry, spacing and coating; a Lubrastrip™ to reduce friction; a comfort guard to help position hair for a better shave; a pivot head to ensure optimal skin contact on facial topography; and a separate blade for precision trimming. The power version is further enhanced with soothing micropulses to reduce drag while shaving. The razor should be rinsed frequently to prevent the build-up of cut hairs between the blades.
Step 3: After the Shave
When men shave, they can unknowingly remove cells of the stratum corneum, as well as natural moisturizers. If this moisture barrier is not restored, men can develop dry, tight and irritated skin. Using a high-quality moisturizing after shave product like Gillette Fusion HydraSoothe After Shave Balm, which is formulated with emollients and hydrating humectants, like glycerin, can enhance the skin’s protective moisture barrier, rehydrate the skin and leave the skin feeling smooth.
The Impact of an Advanced 3-Step Shaving Regimen:
A Clinical Comparison
The use of different product combinations and regimens can yield varied shaving experiences, demonstrating that there are opportunities for men to achieve better, more comfortable shaves through adjustments in their regimens. To further
understand this, Gillette conducted a dermatologist-consulted clinical study comparing a man’s typical shaving regimen, using a bar soap, shaving prep product and razor to a regimen consisting of more advanced products including the Fusion Shaving System and a gentle cleanser. This study examined the effect the Advanced Shaving Regimen had on key indicators of the male shaving experience, including burning, itching, stinging, irritation, hydration, comfort and smoothness.
Study Methodology
Forty (40) men who reported having sensitive skin, shaved 4 or more times a week and experienced moderate or greater shaving irritation were assigned specific shaving regimens for 14 days. Each man was provided a razor and shaving products that were used throughout the study period. Study subjects shaved their faces and necks daily during this time using a split-face design with the Typical Shaving Regimen (control) on one side of the face and the Advanced Shaving Regimen (test) on the opposite side. The neck was included as a high priority in this study as shaving-related problems reported by men to their dermatologists (such as burning, stinging, itching and irritation) often specifically occur in this area.2 It is important to note that the blade of the razor was not changed for the duration of the study.
The Typical Shaving Regimen and the products men were most likely to use as they shaved were determined based on habits, practices and market share data compiled by Gillette.2 At the time of the study’s design, data indicated a Typical
Shaving Regimen consisted of the following:
• Step 1—Cleansing the skin with a typical bar soap (Safeguard)
• Step 2—Applying a typical shave prep (Gillette Foamy Shave Cream) and cutting hair with the market leading razor (Gillette Mach 3)
The Advanced Shaving Regimen included the use of advanced shaving products from the Gillette portfolio. In addition, a third hydration step was included after shaving, and a gentle cleanser was used in place of the bar soap. The specific
steps and products used included:
• Step 1—Cleansing the skin with a gentle cleanser
• Step 2—Applying shave gel designed for extra-sensitive facial skin (Gillette
Fusion Pure and Sensitive HydraGel) and cutting hair with the Gillette Fusion Power Razor
• Step 3—Hydrating skin after shaving using Gillette Fusion HydraSoothe After Shave Balm
On days 1, 7 and 14, clinical data measurements were taken to assess the impact of regimen adjustments on key indicators of the male shaving experience (burning, itching, stinging, irritation, hydration, comfort and smoothness). Measurements
were taken using the following methods:
• Study subjects used a self-assessment visual analog scale (VAS), which assesses factors that are difficult to quantify or describe, to rate their shaving experience in the following areas: burning, stinging, itching, irritation, comfort
and smoothness after their shave.
• Corneometer technology was used to accurately measure the hydration level of the skin surface at least 60 minutes after shave completion. Developed in 1980, the Corneometer is a device to which other skin hydration measurement instruments are compared.3
• A Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) allowed scientists to visualize the impact hydration had on the stratum corneum. Samples representing the average response were chosen for SEM, which visualized the benefit of skin hydration on the stratum corneum. Adhesive tape was applied to the shaved surface, and then removed to extract surface-layer skin cells. Images were
taken after the shave on Day 14 only.
Study Results and Key Research Findings
After 14 days, men using the Advanced Shaving Regimen had superior skin hydration on the neck after shaving when compared to the Typical Shaving Regimen. Samples representing the average response were chosen for SEM, which visualized the benefit of skin hydration on the stratum corneum. In the participant self assessments, the Advanced Shaving Regimen showed significant improvement in indicators relating to skin condition and shave quality versus the Typical Shaving Regimen.
Corneometer Hydration Measurement
Corneometer measurements taken on Days 1, 7 and 14 showed significant hydration benefits on the neck for the Advanced Shaving Regimen. The Advanced Shaving Regimen provided acute hydration benefits on the neck after a single use when compared to the Typical Shaving Regimen. Significant improvement in postshave hydration was also demonstrated by the Advanced Shaving Regimen on Days 7 and 14 (see Figure 4).
VAS Self-Assessment
Study participants using the Advanced Shaving Regimen reported improvements over the Typical Shaving Regimen in all categories on all days, excluding burning improvement on Day 1. After just one day of use, participants using the Advanced
Shaving Regimen reported significant improvement in irritation, comfort and smoothness and directional relief from stinging and itching compared to the Typical Shaving Regimen. By Day 14, participants using the Advanced Shaving Regimen reported significant improvement in burning, stinging, irritation and smoothness (see Figure 5).
Visualization Using Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)
Samples representing the average response were chosen for SEM on Day 14. The microscopic visualization shows the more hydrated skin has resulted in a more homogenous stratum corneum with fewer skin flakes protruding from the surface. It is also lighter in appearance, indicating fewer layers of cells were removed. This implies the hydrated skin has a stronger stratum corneum structure (see Figure 6).


Figure 6
A More Advanced Shaving Regimen Leads to an Improved Shaving Experience for Men with Self-Reported Sensitive Skin
This study suggests that men with self-reported sensitive skin, especially those who want or need to shave daily, could benefit from a 3-step shaving regimen like the Advanced Shaving Regimen, which includes Gillette’s most advanced shaving products in combination with a gentle cleanser. The study also demonstrates that for men who self-identify as having sensitive skin, the right 3-step regimen optimally hydrates skin and improves several self-reported characteristics of a smooth and comfortable shave. Finally, because many of these benefits were noticed immediately, it is more likely that men may continue to use the Advanced Shaving Regimen even if they perceive the regimen as more complicated or time-intensive.
Works Cited
1.Gillette. Advances in Shaving Technology: A Review of the Optimal Shaving Regimen for Men Highlighting Technical Advances Associated with the Fusion Five-Blade Razor and its Myth-Busting Effect on Pseudofolliculitis Barbae. Procter & Gamble.
2.Data on file. Procter & Gamble.
3.Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, The world market leader in producing skin testing equipment. Corneometer scientific equipment listing.
http://www.courage-khazaka.de. Last accessed Oct. 21, 2009.
Figure 6: Day 14 SEM images of skin after treatment show a more homogenous stratum corneum for the hydrated skin (top) versus the less hydrated control (bottom).
About Gillette
Over the years, developers of advanced shaving systems have strived to engineer shaving regimens that incorporate the latest breakthrough technologies in razors and other shave care products. Gillette has been spearheading this effort for more than a century, beginning the moment King Gillette, the company founder, invented the first “safety” razor in 1901. For 70 years, men relied on this conventional razor for achieving the best possible close and comfortable shave. Then, in 1971, Gillette scientists revolutionized the field of shaving science again by introducing a razor with two blades — the Trac II®.
Three-blade shaving technology, called Mach 3, was introduced in 1998 and quickly became a favorite among men. In 2006, Gillette launched its most advanced razor to date, the Fusion five-blade. Not just a shaving company, Gillette has also conducted years of scientific research to develop its personal cleansing, hair care and antiperspirant/deodorant lines.
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