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Home > Articles > Chemistry > The Secret Behind Eyelash Growth

The Secret Behind Eyelash Growth

Posted: August 6th, 2008 @ 3:22pm

Source: Skin Inc.

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Lash and Brown

by: Rebecca James Gadberry From the November 2006 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine. Q. There’s a new growth hormone on the market that supposedly grows eyelashes. What is this ingredient? Does it really work? A. Renewed lash growth, density and pigmentation have been identified as side effects of several drugs commonly used to treat glaucoma. This effect—known as hypertrichosis—first was described in 1997 in association with the drug latanoprost.1 Since then, more reports have surfaced and similar results have been reported for two other glaucoma drugs, as well—travoprost and bimatoprost. All three are members of the prostaglandin family, which is a group of hormonelike lipid compounds associated with inflammation processes throughout the body. The effects seen with these drugs may be normal body responses to mild inflammatory agents. During this response, keratinocytes can proliferate, or generate more of the substances that they produce in order to protect the skin or eyes. In the case of the lash-producing keratinocytes lining the eyelids, the rest cycle of the hair follicle—known as telogen—can be shortened, while the hair-growth cycle—known as anagen—is lengthened. This can result in longer, denser lashes that remain rooted in the lash bed for a more significant period than normal. Melanogenesis, the process that creates melanin pigments, also can increase, resulting in greater deposits of melanin in lashes as they are produced by the keratinocytes. Placebo-controlled studies show that hair growth stimulated by lantanoprost—the most widely studied of the three drugs—occurs very early in the anagen phase.2-4 If lantanoprost use begins at the onset of anagen, results can be seen quickly—sometimes in as little as two to five days5—and can last 14 months or longer.6 The majority of people using lantanoprost will show hair growth after six months of its use, with women exhibiting greater results than men.7 Other studies of these drugs’ effects on lashes indicated that they can produce multiple rows of lashes, as well as a more marked lash curvature. In addition, lantanoprost has been reported to reverse lash alopecia.8-9 Curious researchers also have studied the drugs’ effects on hair growth for the brows and scalp. This research included people with various types of alopecia, or hair loss, with success ranging from no results to those described as remarkable. Even though studies about hair growth on the scalp may show promise, they are still in their infancy. No drugs in this family appear to be ready for the hair-growth market at this time. Comparisons have been made between lantanoprost and minoxidil, the granddaddy of hair-growth stimulators, which also is thought to act via prostaglandin processes. Although minoxidil does have a thickening effect on women’s lashes and has been used to treat alopecia areata in the lash area, it shows inferior results to the lash growth experienced with latanoprost. In addition, minoxidil must be used continually in order to maintain the results. The effects of latanoprost appear to be more powerful and longer lasting.6 Although these outcomes definitely are desirable, unwanted side effects from the three glaucoma drugs also have been reported, albeit much more rarely. Of the three, lantanoprost appears to produce the least amount of negative effects. These include red, itchy eyes, inflammation or darkening of the irises in blue or green eyes, whitening of the lashes, ingrown lashes, increased pigmentation of the eyelids, and reactivation of herpes keratitis or herpes dermatitis, as well as cystoid macular edema in those susceptible to the condition, which can distort a person’s vision when fluid and protein deposits cause a space on the retinas inside the eyes to thicken and swell. Increased pigmentation in the irises is most common among Asians, although 12–18% of Caucasians are reported to see darkening after one to two years of use. The iris hyperpigmentation experienced with these drugs is thought to be caused by increased melanin formation rather than a rise in melanocytes. Because the latter may be indicative of melanoma, this is comforting news to those who experience this effect. Related to prostaglandins are growth factors such as vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and epidermal growth factor (EGF). Although neither apparently is used in cosmetics to induce lash growth, last year one company—Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc.—introduced a new product containing an ingredient named Lash Growth Factor. Company owner Jan Marini admits that the ingredient seems to be working on prostaglandins, but is remaining quiet about further details until her patent is filed sometime within the next several months. Whatever those details are, the effects are remarkably similar to those of the glaucoma drugs. Estheticians, physicians and consumers who use the product containing Lash Growth Factor report noticeable increases in lash growth and density within one to six months of use. Positive effects on brow growth also have been reported. Marini says that alopecia patients sometimes can see results, as well as chemotherapy patients, if they begin using the product after their treatment sessions are completed. However, unlike the glaucoma drugs, Marini adds that her product containing Lash Growth Factor is receiving reports of redness and itching from less than one-tenth of 1% of users. This is significantly less than the occurrence of irritation that frequently is reported with other eye products and glaucoma drugs.

FOOTNOTES
1 M Johnstone, Hypertrichosis and increased pigmentation of eyelashes and adjacent hair in the region of the ipsilateral eyelids of patients treated with unilateral topical latanoprost. Am J Ophthalmol (124), 544–547 (1997)

2 M Sugimoto and Y Uji, Quantitative analysis of eyelash lengthening following topical latanoprost therapy. Can J Ophthalmol (37) 342–345 (2002)

3 R Noecker, S Bulau and J Schwiegerling, Xalatan-induced changes in periocular skin pigmentation and lash dimensions measured using a digital imaging technique. J Invest Ophthalmol (40) S832 (1999)

4 G Stechhi, S Saccucci, S Molinari and F De Gregorio, Eyelash hypertrichosis induced by topical latanoprost: 6-month follow-up study. Acta Ophthalmol Scand (Suppl. 236) 56–57 (2002)

5 R Wolf, H Matz, M Zalish, A Pollack and E Orion, Prostaglandin analogs for hair growth: Great expectations, Dermatology Online Journal 9(3): 7

6 M Johnstone, Brief latanoprost RX induces hypertrichosis [abstract], Invest Ophthalmol Vis Sci (Suppl. 39) S258 (1998)

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